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Article: HTM 120 Nuyarn® Merino Crew: The Base Layer Built for the Climb

Woman wearing a black HTM 120 Nuyarn® Merino singlet, smiling over her shoulder on a sunny tussock hillside in the New Zealand high country

HTM 120 Nuyarn® Merino Crew: The Base Layer Built for the Climb

Every layering system we talk about starts with the same garment. Before the hoodie, before the puffer, before the shell, there's a 120gsm merino crew sitting against your skin doing the unglamorous work of moving sweat off you. If it fails, everything on top of it fails with it.

This is the full story on the HTM 120: what the number means, why it's Nuyarn®, how it should fit, and when it's the only top you need.

What 120gsm actually means

GSM is grams per square metre. It's the weight of the fabric, and in merino it tells you more about how a garment will behave than almost anything else on the label.

Weight What it's for On the hill
120–150gsm Active base layer Hard climbs, warm days, next to skin in a full system. Wicks and dries fastest.
180–200gsm Mid-weight Cool-weather standalone, slower to dry. Fine for sitting, warm for climbing.
250gsm+ Heavyweight Cold, low-output use. Too hot and too slow to dry for most NZ hunting.

We chose 120gsm for the base layer because NZ hunting is mostly movement. You climb hard, you sweat, and then you stop and glass in the wind. A light layer clears the sweat before you stop, so you're not sitting in a wet shirt. A heavy layer holds it – and that's how people get cold on a warm day.

Why it's Nuyarn®, not ordinary merino

Standard merino is spun by twisting the fibres together. That makes the yarn dense, which slows drying and compresses the natural crimp that gives wool its warmth. It's also why conventional merino wears through at the seams under a pack strap.

Nuyarn® wraps the merino fibre around a fine nylon core without twisting it. The fibre keeps its loft, the fabric dries far faster, and the seams come out roughly 120% stronger. For a garment that lives under pack straps and gets washed after every trip, that's the difference between a base layer that thins out in a season and one that lasts several.

The full explanation is in What Is Nuyarn® Merino? – this post sticks to the garment.

Design details and why they're there

Feature Why it's there
Crew neck Sits flat under a hoodie or shell, with no collar to bunch at the back of your neck under a pack.
Thumb holes Keep the sleeves down when you pull a hoodie over the top, and cover the gap between glove and cuff on a cold morning.
Flat-lock seams No raised seam under the shoulder straps. You notice this on day three, not day one.
UPF 50+ New Zealand UV is brutal on the tops. A long-sleeve merino that blocks it beats sunscreen on sweaty arms.
Natural odour control Merino doesn't hold smell the way synthetics do. Three days in the same base layer is normal, not heroic.
Three colours The men's crew comes in black, forest green and cool grey. No camo – it's a base layer, and in most NZ bush a muted solid works fine.
Fabric 70% merino, 30% nylon – the nylon is the core the merino is wrapped around, not a blend for stretch.

Men's and women's cuts

The HTM 120 comes as a men's crew and a women's singlet, and they're cut from separate patterns rather than one shape resized. Because a base layer only does its job where it's in contact with your skin, each cut is shaped to sit close on the body it's made for.

The men's crew runs S to 2XL. The women's singlet has its own women's size chart.

How it should fit

Close, not tight. You want the fabric against your skin across the chest and back, with enough stretch to move freely – and Nuyarn® has more stretch than standard merino, so it'll give.

If you're between sizes, go down on the HTM 120. A base layer that's slightly snug wicks; one that's slightly loose doesn't. The hoodie over the top is the opposite – true to size, because it needs room to move.

When to wear it on its own

More often than you'd think. In spring and summer, and on any hard climb, the HTM 120 is the whole top half. It's light enough to climb in, the crew's long sleeves keep the sun off your arms, and it dries on your back in the wind when you stop.

Once the temperature drops or you stop moving, the HTM 145 hoodie goes over it. Below that, the Ranger Down Puffer. The HTM 120 stays on through all of it – it's the one layer you never take off.

Where it sits in the system

Layer Garment When it's on
Base HTM 120 Nuyarn® Merino crew or singlet Always
Mid HTM 145 Nuyarn® Merino Hunting Hoodie When you stop or the temperature drops
Insulation Ranger Down Puffer Jacket Glassing, camp, cold mornings
Shell Waterproof jacket Sustained rain

The logic behind the whole system is in Hunting Layering System NZ.

Looking after it

  • Cool machine wash on a gentle or wool cycle, with a wool detergent
  • No fabric softener – it coats the fibre and kills the wicking
  • Dry flat or on a line, out of direct sun. Never tumble dry.
  • Wash it less than you think – airing it overnight is usually enough between days

The honest summary

The HTM 120 isn't the piece that gets the photos. It's the piece that decides whether the rest of your kit works. Light enough to climb in, tough enough to last, cut to fit men and women properly, and built from the best-performing merino we've found. Start here.

Shop the HTM 120 Nuyarn® Merino Men's Crew

Frequently Asked Questions

What does 120gsm mean in a merino base layer?

GSM is grams per square metre – the weight of the fabric. 120gsm is a lightweight merino built for active use: it sits against the skin, wicks sweat on a climb and dries fast. Heavier weights, from around 180gsm up, are warmer but slower to dry and too hot for hard movement.

Is the HTM 120 warm enough for winter hunting in NZ?

As a base layer under a mid layer and insulation, yes. The HTM 120 is designed to move moisture, not to be the warm layer on its own. In winter it goes under the HTM 145 hoodie and the Ranger Down Puffer. On its own, it suits spring, summer and hard climbs in any season.

What is the difference between the HTM 120 and the HTM 145?

The HTM 120 is Main Divide's 120gsm base layer, worn against the skin – a men's crew and a women's singlet. The HTM 145 is a 145gsm hoodie worn over it as a mid layer, or on its own in mild conditions, in both men's and women's cuts. Both are Nuyarn® merino.

How should a merino base layer fit?

Close to the skin without being tight – if it's loose, it can't wick. Main Divide recommends sizing down on the HTM 120 if you're between sizes, and true to size on the HTM 145 hoodie.

Does Nuyarn® merino pill or wear through at the seams?

Nuyarn® wraps merino fibre around a nylon core rather than twisting it, which gives roughly 120% stronger seams than conventionally spun merino and better abrasion resistance under pack straps. It's still merino, so it needs a cool wash and no tumble dryer.

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